![]() Optionally, set Saturation to +20 for more vibrant positives (or saturation can be added when conversion is complete, if required) In RT, uncheck the Clip out-of-gamut colours box (highlighted, because this is a new step as per the update at the top of the post ) Open a negative raw file in GIMP, which loads it into RawTherapee via plug-in Capture negatives with at least some of the border visible in the frame ![]() Set correct camera and lens exposure parameters to ensure no clipping When digitising negatives, set the camera's custom white balance against the light source used It's more consistent and predictable than Negative Lab Pro, in my limited experience, and runs rings around Darktable and RawTherapee's integrated conversion modules. I've tested the approach with numerous negatives of my own - plus a few belonging to others - and I'm getting exactly the results I want and expect. ![]() I've also tried entirely manual conversion in GIMP, inverting the tone curve then adjusting R, G and B curves in a bid to achieve realistic colours and tones without any colour cast, but it can be very time consuming and rarely produces 100% satisfactory results.įor the past week or so, I've been working on a method of conversion using a combination of GIMP and RawTherapee, and I'm confident I've cracked it. I've tried Darktable's "Negadoctor" module, and RawTherapee's "Film Negative" module, and whilst they can work pretty well, the results are extremely variable and highly dependent on the content of the digitised negative. It also hides what it does behind automation and presets (the whole point, to some extent), and this can make it difficult to predict results with absolute confidence. It generally does an excellent job - but it's not perfect, and can occasionally require a fair bit of tweaking or re-running to produce the desired output. ![]() To convert them into positives, I've been using a commercial Lightroom plug-in called Negative Lab Pro. I also recommend setting Saturation to +10 in RawTherapee before the Colour Toning step, as this ultimately results in better saturated positives - but you can always add saturation when conversion is complete.īy now, quite a few of you will know that I'm shooting film and digitising my negatives at home with a DSLR. So, please uncheck the box as directed, and it will work correctly! If this box is checked (which is the default), it's possible (though not always the case) that the colours in the negative won't be true to what was captured by the camera, and the inverted image in GIMP may have a colour cast (the very thing we're trying to avoid!). When the raw file is loaded into GIMP - which in turn loads it into RawTherapee automatically - it's essential to un-check "Clip out-of-gamut colours" (the very first item in the Exposure section). Further investigation has revealed the cause (I'm a little annoyed with myself for missing it) and, as a result, I've refined the process very slightly: Since writing this post and publishing the "how-to" video on YouTube, I've run into a couple of inaccurate conversions with some of my older negatives. I have asked the moderators to close this older, out-dated thread, and cordially direct you to the new one linked above for further discussion :) This thread has been superseded by a later, updated and more-detailed tutorial in the Post-Processing Articles forum, here:
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